25 Most Useful Knots

My favourites. This is pretty much all the knots I would ever think I will need. Of these, I probably use only 5 in 95% of the time. Most of these are ones my dad taught me. I did some decent research (multiple days!) into the best types and these are the ones.


Hitch: a loop tied directly to an object e.g., a post, dock pole, mooring buoy, anchor, or cleat. Contrast with Loop knot where a loop is tied first and then passed over a post, pole etc.

Bend: Joins two ropes/lines.

Standing End: The long end – the part not knotted. The standing part lies between the standing end and the knot.

End/short end/loose end/working end: The short end – the part getting knotted.

Bitter End: Derived from the “Bitts” – the stout metal posts on a ship, used for attaching mooring ropes – it is applied to the tail end of a mooring line.

Bight – Commonly used to refer to a loop, though not strictly true. It means any central part of the rope, or a curve in the rope no narrower than a semi circle, i.e. less than a loop.

Loop: Made when a rope forms a partial circle without the ends crossing each other.

Loop Knot: end of the rope is made fast to its own standing part. Can be used similarly to a hitch, only with a loop knot the loop is tied first, and then passed over a post or other object its going to attach to.

Round Turn: Two passes of a rope around an object – to completely encircle it.

Slipped: A knot is Slipped when it is completed using a loop or loops to make them easier to untie. The best known example is the Bow, a slipped version of the Square Knot. Many of the knots described can be slipped. Using a loop makes them less secure – think of shoelaces – but they are released more easily.

Uses of Different Types of Knot/Loop/Hitch

Fixed loop in the end of a rope: Bowline Loop (most popular), Double Dragon Loop, Zeppelin Loop, Double Figure of 8. Avoid Kalmyk Loop (too easy to tie incorrectly).

Fixed loop in the middle of a rope: Alpine Butterfly Loop (brilliant), Manharness Loop.

Tying two different sized ropes together: Sheet Bend.

Tying two same sized ropes together: Alpine Butterfly Bend, Zeppelin Bend, Carrick Bend. Avoid: Hunter’s Bend, Ashley Bend; they have a tendency to jam.

Tying off to something: Clove Hitch, Round Turn & Two Half Hitches.

Tying down a heavy load, or getting a line tight: Truckers Hitch, Backhand Hitch (Easier to tie than a Trucker’s Hitch, adds a slight tension, not as much as Trucker’s Hitch).

Binding Knot for tying up the mouth of a bag or bundles of long things: Constrictor Knot (best in class), Clove Hitch.

Adjustable friction loop: Prusik, Klemheist.

Adjustable Friction Hitches for creating an adjustable loop, e.g for tent guy lines: Awning Hitch, Midshipman’s Hitch, Farrimond Friction Hitch, McCarthy Hitch.

Dragging a log or pole or attaching a line to an awkward object: Timber Hitch plus Killick Hitch.

Pulling lengthwise on a pole/rod/rope: Rolling Hitch, Icicle Hitch (strongest and best in modern ropes).

Bundling up an object/Tying around an object or tying up a package: Reef Knot, Surgeon’s Knot.

Quick release hitch: Siberian Hitch, plus other slipped hitches.

Stopper Knot: Ashley Stopper, EStar Stopper.

Marlinspike Hitch

I’ve put this one first as it’s a simple and useful utility knot and also can be the starting point for many other knots, such as the Bowline, Ashley Stopper, Slip Knot, and Noose Knot. The Marlinspike Hitch is a quick hitch and can be used to tie temporarily to a pole or make a rope ladder knots for the rungs, or for adding a stick to make pulling on a rope/paracord easier on the fingers, or for creating a toggle to connect a hammock or other line to an existing line.

Starting point for making a noose knot, which can be then be used as a starting point for a quick tie Bowline where the working end of the rope is passed back through the noose knot and dressed into the Bowline.

Can be used to tie two ropes together with two Marlinspike Hitches, which forms two Bowlines.

Have seen this used for making a toggle in a line to hang a rucksack from, or for attaching a tarp to, or for attaching a hammock line to a webbing strap. If you use a stick for this, make sure the load from the second rope is on the knot and not on the stick.


One of the most useful knots. Used for tying a fixed loop in the end of a rope that will not tighten up on itself.

Rescue knot for making a loop to go around someone.

Used a lot in sailing, for example, to secure sheets to the clew of a headsail.

Two bowlines can be used to connect two lines, though there are better knots for that.

Very easy to untie, does not jam.

Can be tied around yourself one-handed.

Can be tied with a bight in the end to make it quick release.

Quick tie method: Can tie a loose MarlinSpike Hitch and pull though into a noose knot and pass the working end back through the noose knot to tie the bowline. Which side you pass the working end through the loop determines if you end up with a Bowline or Cowboy Bowline:

Quick and Easy Bowline with the slip knot method

Another very quick method, tying the slip knot part with one hand, and the same for a Double Bowline. And another way starting with an overhand knot around/through an object.

When complete, the end can protrude within the loop, or on the outside of it. The latter form makes the Cowboy’s Bowline, which is less secure according to some sources, and others say it’s the way their navy do it! I’ve looked at both and it looks exactly the same strength to me, just whichever one looks neater to you.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozskWrDM-F4 Shipwright Louis Sauzedde shows us a few ways to tie a Bowline as well as the many different uses of this famous knot.

Also see Double Dragon Loop for an end of rope loop. Very secure loop. Two ways to tie, one when you want to put a loop in the end of a rope and another for tying a loop around a piling or post. Similar to the Perfection Loop in fishing. Less prone to loosening off like the Bowline.


“I did read on one website that maybe the Kalmyk Loop Knot would unseat the dominance of the Bowline. I am not sure that it will and to be honest I still prefer the Imitation Slipped Bowline: https://youtu.be/i1KSZfSGEPg as a loop knot that is slipped.”

Can the Kalmyk Loop unseat the Bowline as king of knots? Answer: No. Too easy to tie incorrectly. I’ve spent an hour or so trying several different ways, it’s a fun knot to tie, however, it was still too easy to tie incorrectly so that the knot completely fails.

Imitation Slipped Bowline:

Flying Bowline/Tugboat Bowline. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llQ_7GkuB7I Not quite a bowline, but it is a fixed loop. The difference is that it can’t be untied after put under a strain. This is the one you tie by flinging the end around flamboyantly.

Also See Zeppelin Loop for a good strong loop that’s easy to untie after loading and supposedly used in bungee jumping?

For a even more secure Bowline, use the Double Bowline, where you make a double loop for the hole the ‘rabbit’ goes down, and you can then pass the loose end directly back up behind the knot and through the loop to lie alongside the standing end. Add a Double Fisherman’s stopper to be fully secure… this is the method some climbers use to tie in instead of a Double Figure of 8 knot as they say it’s easier to untie after loading (like a fall!).

Round Turn and Two Half Hitches

Useful for tying a boat to a piling, or tying something to a tree or a ring. Good for clotheslines.

Can easily be loosened or tightened.

The round turn applies friction. The two half hitches part is essentially a clove hitch.

Can do a quick release version by putting a bight through for the last half hitch.

Another version that is similar is the round turn with a cow hitch instead of the half hitches. Apparently easier to release than two half hitches.

Alternative is the Buntline Hitch. More secure than the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches and will get tighter if yanked around by the wind:

Even more secure for slipperly lines is the EStar Hitch, which is a Buntline with an additional loop:

Also a Munter Hitch looks good. See below.

Clove Hitch

Useful for temporarily attaching something to a post, or tying fender whips to the side of a boat. Can be easily adjusted to raise or lower the fender. Can be used to temporarily secure a dock line to a piling, but it can work itself loose as the boat moves around. An extra half hitch or two increases security. depending on the rope used it can work loose. Try the Tautline Hitch or Farrimond Friction Hitch for more security.

Tying a Clove Hitch around an object
Tying a Clove Hitch when passing over the end of a pole

There are in fact better knots in the Binding Loops category such as the Constrictor Knot which is considered the best.

Rolling Hitch

A Rolling Hitch is a popular slide and grip knot, though may fail with modern ropes. It is the knot used to create a Midshipman’s Hitch which is an adjustable loop.

The Rolling Hitch is used to fasten a rope to a rod, pole or another rope. It is used to pull along an object lengthwise, as opposed to right angles. This knot is often used to rig a stopper, to slacken a tensioned sail line or sheet so that a jammed winch can be cleared safely… or so I’ve seen on a video!

The rolling hitch will keep any line secured to a vertical cylindrical object, such as a stanchion, from slipping. It can also be used to form an adjustable noose that doesn’t slip under load (Midshipman’s Hitch), which is handy when securing tie-downs for an awning on deck. 

The “pull” MUST be in line with the main rope (or the pole). If the tension is away from the standing rope or pole, this knot is likely to fail.

Under Load: The Rolling Hitch is one of the few knots which can be tied and untied with load on. It does not bind and, when tied correctly, does not slip. However, in critical applications some authorities recommend using the tail end to tie a second Rolling Hitch to back up the first.

You may notice that the rolling hitch is a Clove Hitch but with two round turns on the side where the strain will come from.

Some modern ropes are very slippery, e.g., Spectra®, Dyneema®, and Polypropylene. A Rolling Hitch will not hold at all in such materials.

Recent Research: In August of 2009 Practical Sailor reported on their testing of slide and grip knots. Their analysis concluded: “… On more modern line, which tends to be much more slippery, the rolling hitch often slips under load. It may also fail to hold on wire or stainless-steel tubing….”  After testing various knots, they recommended the Icicle Hitch as offering the best performance as a Slide and Grip Knot.

Under Load: The Rolling Hitch is one of the few knots which can be tied and untied with load on. It does not bind and, when tied correctly, does not slip. However, in critical applications some authorities recommend using the tail end to tie a second Rolling Hitch to back up the first.

Tautline Hitch and Midshipman’s Hitch

These are adjustable friction loops tied with a Rolling Hitch or variation of the Rolling Hitch (Tautline Hitch version).

Midshipman’s Hitch
Midshipman’s Hitch. Exactlyt the same as the Tautline Hitch except the second of the two initial turns goes on the inside rather than the outside.

A Midshipman’s Hitch is an adjustable loop tied with a rolling hitch, slight difference in the first two wraps placement to a Tautline Hitch. Examples of the differences here. Midshipman’s Hitch is more secure of the two. Before putting the final half hitch on it’s called an Awning Hitch and can be used for temporarily setting up a tent for example before adjusting and finishing. The Midshipman’s Hitch initially forms an Awning Hitch that will take load temporarily. This can be useful when setting tent guy lines or taking the initial load of a mooring line.

Aeroplanes are tied down with an Awning Hitch, and then a second Awning hitch 6 inches or so below the first.

A Tautline Hitch is a less secure version of the two. The only difference between a Tautline and a Midshipman’s Hitch is the placement of the second wrap, the Tautline version goes next to the first, the Midshipman’s Hitch uses a rolling hitch where the second wrap goes back over itself.

Don’t use this one, just use the Midshipman’s version.

A common use of this knot is for tent guy lines or a ridge line on a tarp shelter (Trucker’s Hitch is also used). The Midshipman’s Hitch can be tightened or loosened by pushing it up or down on the part of the rope that is standing. For lightweight tasks like guy lines these are often tied slipped for ease of untying.

Also try the Farrimond Hitch for more friction and quicker untying. Very useful for tent guy lines… see below.

There is also the Adjustable Grip Hitch, kinda like the start of a Tautline, but with a different final half hitch. I still prefer the Farrimond, though “The Farrimond Hitch is a nice hitch knot, it has a Prussic like status to it but like others have mentioned, this hitch knot slips under tension. I feel that the Grip Hitch Knot is far superior with doing 3 passes around the standing end and then finishing the knot off with the final step where you go around the entire knot with a slippery hitch. The Grip Hitch Knot is best for using for anything such as a Ridge Line, Tarp Guy Lines, Landscaping to hold a Tree in place, etc. You are able to really get lots of tension by using the Grip Hitch Knot and it will not slip and will keep constant tension and pressure on the line.”

Until completed the Adjustable Grip Hitch cannot “take the load”. By contrast, the Midshipman’s Hitch initially forms an Awning Hitch that will take load temporarily. This can be useful when setting tent guy lines or taking the initial load of a mooring line.

Overboard: The Midshipman’s Hitch Knot is promoted by Ashley (ABOK # 1993, p 325) as the only knot to tie in the following unlikely but critical circumstance: you fall overboard and catch hold of the line which you have prudently left trailing astern and find yourself hanging on with difficulty. Before you tire, you manage to bring the bitter end of the rope around your back. You then have to tie a suitable knot to make a loop around you. A bowline cannot be tied under load. Two Half Hitches will slide and constrict you. The Rolling Hitch is the answer. Even as the second turn is tucked “up” into the correct place, the major strain is taken and the final Half Hitch can be tied with less urgency.

The Icicle Hitch

The Icicle Hitch Knot is almost identical to the knot described by Ashley to hoist a spar (ABOK # 1762, p 299) and to the Klemheist. The only difference is that the other knots are tied using a loop of rope.

The Icicle Hitch Knot is used when force is applied parallel to a post or pole in only one direction. In August of 2009, it was fully reviewed in Practical Sailor. They found it to be superior to other slide and grip knots including the Rolling Hitch.



Farrimond Friction Hitch

Quicker to untie than the Midshipman’s Hitch. Similar use to the Midshipman’s Hitch. Can supposedly hold tighter than the Tautline Hitch or Midshipman’s Hitch. I still like the Farrimond best of all the gripper knots for guy line type uses as it comes undone easiest and can be tied anywhere along the length of the line.


Another good one for guy lines is the McCarthy Hitch. If you have a lot of available line, you can go around the tent peg, back up and around the the bowline connecting the line to the tent webbing loop, pull it tight (this gives a 3:1 advantage like a Trucker’s Hitch), then pinch and finish with a slippery hitch just below the Bowline.

Evenk Hitch aka Siberian Hitch

Quick-release hitch. Often used to tie the starting end of a tarp ridge line or hammock to a tree. Can be undone very easily. Can be tied quickly and even with gloves on, hence use in Siberia I guess. Should not be trusted for critical loads.

It is essentially a figure of 8 tied around the standing end.

Quick one-handed version of the Siberian Hitch.

Sheet Bend or Double Sheet Bend

Tying two ropes together of similar or dissimilar thicknesses, or different materials. Easy to untie.

Use this instead of a reef knot for anything where strength/security matters.

Other useful bends for same size/type of ropes: Carrick Bend (for easily undoing the knot even after a heavy load), Zeppelin Bend (for easily undoing the knot even after a heavy load). The Zeppelin Bend is reliable with very little tendency to slip or bind. Testing by Roo found the knot to be exceptionally secure and shake-resistant in all materials. In this respect he regards it as superior to the Alpine Butterfly Bend.

Sheet Bend
Double Sheet Bend

When both tails end up on the same side it’s a right-handed Sheet Bend and is the preferred method for some reason? When they end up on opposite sides it’s called a left-handed Sheet-Bend.

You can also start with a Marlinspike Hitch, pulled through to a Noose Knot, and pass the thicker end of the two ropes into the slip knot loop and then invert/capsize the slip knot into the Sheet Bend.

Alpine Butterfly Loop

Used any time a secure loop in the middle of a rope is required.

The Alpine Butterfly has a reputation for strength and reliability.

It can be loaded from any point safely. Useful as the top loop of a Trucker’s Hitch if not using a Sheep Shank or twisted Noose knot. Good used to isolate a damaged part of the rope. As it’s so strong it can also be used for tying two similar sized ropes together, known as a Butterfly Bend or Strait Bend.

Even after a heavy load, the Alpine Butterfly Loop remains reasonably easy to undo.

Three ways to tie, one involving a double twist and two around your hand.


Nice method for tying the Alpine Butterfly Loop:

Can make a series of Alpine Butterflys along a drying line to prevent everything being hung sliding into the middle.

Alpine Butterfly Bend


Correct tying is critical. The Evil Impostor which results from threading the ends incorrectly is bad. The Hand-Wrapping technique is designed to avoid this risk.

Can be tied the same as the Alpine Butterfly Loop, just ensuring that the two ends come out where the loop would be.

Reef Knot / Square Knot

Tying around an object to secure it. Tying up packages, tying knot on a first aid sling, tying up a sail (reefing the sail). Not a strong knot. Don’t rely on it for safety.

Surgeon’s Knot is a variation, it’s a binding knot for slippery or artificial-fibre ropes:

Trucker’s Hitch

Used for tying down loads. For safety in tying down, start on the road side where the traffic is, and put the Trucker’s hitch on the far side, the pavement side so that you’re spending less time on that side, and also if adding tension and you slip you only fall on your arse, not under a passing vehicle!

Uses a loop in the rope as a block and tackle to give a 3:1 theoretical mechanical advantage, though in practice with the friction it’s far less.

Also useful for getting a tent ridgeline tight.

Different sources claim to show the difference betweeen a Trucker’s Hitch and a Truckie Hitch, however none seem to offer a consistent hitch for either I’ve found. This leads me to believe it’s just a different name for a variant/s of the same knot known locally as one or the other.

Can be tied in lots of ways, some with a fixed knot for the loop like a slip knot, directional figure of 8, or Alpine Butterfly loop, and some with a one or two loops based on half a Sheepshank with or without extra twists. However if a fixed loop is used repeatedly for tying the trucker’s hitch in the same portion of rope, excessive wear or other damage may be suffered by the portion of the loop which working end slides against. These are more prone to jamming (specifically the slip knot style) and don’t come undone as easy as the other methods involving a Sheepshank type loop.

https://www.animatedknots.com/truckers-hitch-knot – with a figure 8 knot, or alpine butterfly for the loop

Basic Slip Knot style (no twists in creating the slip knot) – good for light to moderate loads.

  • Starting with half a Sheepshank, then threading the end around the tie-down rail and through the loop before tensioning and tying off, (1,2,3 below). Examples often show an extra loop below the first which I think is more secure than the below simple example;
  • Or by passing a succession of bights in the rope through each other, (4,5,6,7 below).
Also see this in action here, albeit with an extra secure loop a the top which I like. This saves a bit of time in not having to feed all the rope around a rail.
Method based on the Sheepshank – note the second loop. May collapse under extreme loads. Good for light to moderate tension – from an Arborist.
For the extreme loads version, make a loop and put several twists in it before passing a bight from the working end through to make a slip knot… then pull tight… see next image:
Finished version with the twisted slip knot. Best for extreme loads according to this arborist. However this one contradicts this by saying it’s not as strong as the one with two sheep shank loops as all the pressure is on the one slip knot. Not sure which is true????

Making a triple twist slip knot to make the loop. And another example of several twists before passing the bight through to make the slipknot in the same way. Makes untying very simple.

From another arborist, shows wrapping twice around a bight with the second on the inside with two twists which he claims is the ‘English’ Truckers Hitch. It comes undone afterwards really easily. Same as this TikTok video. Also, this Tiktok video version is the same but with a twist and not an extra loop as the other video has.

Aussie example of 3 ways here. Great video.

The ones with Sheepshank loops will completely fail if the load shifts and the rope goes slack surely?

Another Aussie doing a variation with Sheepshank loops.

Nice tying method for the top loop as a sheepshank by adding a half hitch with the loop through the Sheepshank to stop it falling out:

Nice Method, double through the loop to make it it hold fast, good for soft slippery rope or paracord. Nice method on the Alpine butterfly loop and also started off with an Anchor Hitch I think it was?:

Multiple images of the different ways to tie on the Wikipedia site.

Once tensioned, the knot can be tied off in any way; a Clove Hitch + Half Hitch or Half Hitches are commonly used, often slipped. Under load a Half Hitch can become jammed however. Finishing with a Midshipman’s Hitch or a Farrimond friction hitch to the standing part allows the finishing knot to be tied and untied with no tension. This eliminates any jamming problems and also allows the line to be re-tensioned if necessary – Wikipedia.

Releasing: the one with a Sheepshank can be released by pulling down on the loop:

Releasing the Trucker’s Hitch.

This quick release option with the Sheepshank loop is not suitable for soft or slippery nylon rope according to Animated Knots.

Seems to me the more secure are the fixed loop designs, the twisted slip knot probably being the best, particularly with modern manmade fibres and paracord.

Figure of 8

I’m not a big fan of the figure of 8, even after using for climbing. There seems to be other knots that do what this does but are easier to untie and I always found this knot a bit boring. However, I have since read that there are two ways to tie a Figure of 8, one where the load bearing loop goes around the top, and one where the load bearing loop goes below the top loop. The bottom loop version is easier to untie after being loaded. The one on the right in the picture below is easier to untie:


Used to make a single loop in the end of a rope, or to make a loop some way along a rope. Often used for climbing.

Whilst often used to tie a loop some way along a rope, the Double Figure Eight is not appropriate for situations where a 3-way pull is possible. (The Alpine Butterfly Knot is best for this).

Figure of 8 stopper can be used for preventing a rope from running out of a retaining device. Variations can make a strong loop in the end of a rope (climbing).

This version is a Figure of 8 loop
Double Figure 8. It is more correctly called the Figure Eight on the Bight, and was originally known as the Flemish Loop.

Ashley Stopper Knot

Makes reliable bulky stopper knot in the end of a rope.


Make a MarlinSpike Hitch and pull through into a slip knot, then pass the working end through the loop and pull tight.

If you want a temporary stopper, you can do this slipped.

For slippery rope the EStar Stopper is best.

Constrictor knot

Good for tying two long things together, like a bundle of canes, or a bits of timber for transport, or closing up the end of a bag, like a cement bag or fertilizer etc. Can be used instead of zip ties in some situations. Comes off easily if pull in the middle on the right bit.

Can be tied by making two loops, or kinda like a clove hitch but passing under slightly differently.

Simple way to tie a Constrictor knot.

Another way to tie… make a wide S shape in front, bring the loops all the way behind the standing and working ends and then fold the loops inwards to each other.


A Friction Hitch. Symmetrical 3-turn slide and grip (friction) knot. Used for climbing. With weight on the knot pulling inline with the main rope it will not slide either way along the rope. Also useful for a tarp ridgeline to attach the tarp. A posh version, a Soft Shackle can be made out of hollow braid to use as a prusik, giving access to add an item to the loop easily for hanging.

Prusik vs Klemheist: Prusik works in either direction, is neater, easier to inspect for correctness, can only be tied with cord. Klemheist works only in one direction, can be tied with cord and slings. Both do the same job.

Double Fisherman’s Knot

Used to tie two ropes together. Strong but difficult to get untied. Used to create a Prusik loop.

Slip Knot & Noose Knot

Often used interchangeably for the same knot, though there is a difference. The Noose Knot is the version where the loop is made with the standing end and tightens when pulled. A Slip Knot is where the loop is made from the working end and doesn’t tighten when the standing end is pulled. A Slip knot could be used as a stopper knot to go through a hole and prevent the rope from pulling back through the hole, but then released easily with a tug on the loose end. A Noose Knot could be used to snare animals, or tying on to something to start a lashing, or for tying onto the hole in a tarp to make it easier to release. If you have that on one end of the tarp and a Farrimond Friction Hitch on the end attached to a tree it makes it really quick to break down camp.



Timber Hitch

A Timber Hitch is useful when towing a spar or log either afloat or on land. When used for this purpose, the Timber Hitch is often placed near the center of the spar and a separate Half Hitch is dropped over the end of the spar to act as a guide, this version becomes a Killick Hitch I think.

Munter Hitch / Italian Hitch

For lowering someone down a steep incline.

Normally used on a screw-gate karabiner (pear-shaped), but can be tied around a pole or spar.

Used for controlling the rate at which a rope is fed out, especially under tension.

Add a couple of half hitches and it becomes a Backhand Hitch. Used same as a Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. Not sure which would be stronger? One website said it was his favourite as most useful.

Munter Hitch + 2 half hitches = Backhand Hitch. Munter Hitch is used for controlled lowering / descent, lock it down and it becomes a Backhand Hitch. Saw in a video that it’s a great universal hitch, has a strong breaking force and can be tied in all types of rope or wire. It’s used by Ray Mears for tensioning and tying off a tarp ridgeline.

Cleat Hitch

Any time you make off a line on a cleat, on a dock or on deck, this is the knot to use.

As you gain experience, you will begin to recognize families of knots that are related. For example, two half hitches and the cleat hitch are really clove hitches: the former is tied on the standing end of a line, while the latter is bent around the horns of a cleat. As you practice tying these seven essential knots, you will immediately recognize the look and shape of the knot when made correctly, and more important, will recognize when you have tied it incorrectly.

Tumble Hitch

Quick Release hitch.

The Tumble Hitch is suitable for temporary, supervised use to hold non-critical loads, e.g., while boarding a kayak. Or, a dinghy may be temporarily secured alongside a high dock.

Better than the Mooring Hitch.

Pile Hitch

Easy attachment to a mooring pole or to make rope fence.

provides a valuable way to quickly attach a mooring line to a dock post. It is surprisingly secure and very rapidly cast off. The Pile Hitch cannot, however, be recommended as a permanent mooring hitch. A series of Pile Hitches can also be used to make a rope fence.

Hanking Cord

Tying up lengths or cord. What I didn’t realise is that once bound up, you can simply pull on the loose end to undo, i.e. the one with the bowline tied in it below… really useful for guy lines!


https://www.animatedknots.com/ / https://www.youtube.com/c/AnimatedKnotsbyGrog is the best single knot resource online. Brilliant resource.

This guy has some amazing skills and tips… wish I spoke whatever language he speaks: https://www.tiktok.com/@fabul998?source=h5_t

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7nysDkNnZHfrTs3tg7GlP_JYtqWbadbA – Bushcraft Knots on YouTube. Very comprehensive clear explanations. Lots of knots.

‘Ashley Book of Knots’ is the Bible of knots that lots of sites reference.



http://igkt-solent.co.uk/index/ A-Z of Knots. International Guild of Knot Tiers. They also have a very well used Forum.

https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=30.0International Guild of Knot Tyers Forum thread on the best knots to have.

http://igkt-solent.co.uk/knot-strength-chart/ Knot Strength Chart.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s